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Old 07-31-2010, 02:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Lets' Talk 16 Volt Batteries

I was thinking about maybe swapping out the (2) 12-volts in the black Coronet for a 16V, but I'm being told that you have to rewire the gauges and other electrical.

On the red car I use to have the old style 16V that had a 12V lug. When I went to the new style 16V -- it didn't have a 12V terminal -- and I don't remember doing anything for the gauges.

I know the 16V will make a fan, water pump, and fuel pump run faster, that you need relays on them, and need to adjust your fuel pressure at the pump -- but does it affect anything else in the car adversely -- and what do you need to do to adjust for it?
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is my take on this. A 12v system with alternator has a nominal voltage of 14 - 14.5. Everything is made for that and runs fine. A 16v battery in trunk without alternator will lose maybe .5v - 1v before it reaches the front. So you are pretty close to the 12v system.

Now if you ran an alternator on 16v you would be supplying close to 18v on the system. That could prove to be too much for some components.

Yes, motors will spin faster. The one that will see the highest voltage would be the fuel pump because it is the closest to the battery. Still should not be a problem.

With regards to relays, all large load should be using a relay. This is to minimize the long stretches of heavier wire.

I hopes this helps some.
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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No Alternator
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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good topic.I was thinking about a 16v last month
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Cut and paste from the other site (TOO MANY TO KEEP UP WITH!)

We have always run a standard 12 volt battery and an alternator (even on the old dragster, 7's at over 170MPH, w/ MSD 7). We've tried all the SUPER GIZMO batteries ..... 16 volt (why not 18, or 24?), Optmi(junk), Predator(garbage)...they're not durable...one season and they're scrap.

It's not high tech, a 45 amp nippo alternator and one Group 27 Exide...consistency, no charging, no voltage drop, run your fan, no worries, never. It's worth a couple of horsepower and a few pounds, not having another thing to think about! Cheep too. I like low tech, simple, worry free and CHEEP!

Sometimes we charge between rounds if we're bored. Charger on 10 amp charge for about 15 minutes and the "fully charged" light comes on. I love it!
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My problem with an alternator is room. Damon hooked up an alternator real low -- but it threw the belt in the first pass. Damon said that the belt was skinnier than he wanted -- but all he could get. He thinks a wider belt won't throw. We'll try that, but if it doesn't work -- I think a 16V is going to give less trouble than a pair of 12V without a alternator.
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok , let me get to a little more detail about why you need a step down....nominal on those batteries is 17.12 volts, max charge rate is 20.8. In a perfect world, you can get by with no step down....call Autometer if you want guages are rated for 18V, most light bulbs the same. You are very close to this at nominal and if you flip switches while charging / have a surge ( momentary turn off/on of fan for example) you risk burning these things up....
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Looking into this further -- I see that water pump companies are offering motors in 12V and 16V.

I never rewired my Red Coronet when the 16V batteries stopped having the 12V lug.

So that said -- anyone have a link to the actual step down component and how and where it needs to wired in?
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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16 Volt AGM Batteries
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default step down

Dave, We use a step down with our 16 v setup now.

I think it is a powermaster...

Gives you two different voltages to use.

We run the starter and ignition box off of 16v, the rest is 12v.

M.
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