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How big is your fuel cell,5 Gals? Add a 10 gal tank,the extra 5 gals adds aprox 30/40 lbs over rear.Add another battery,a Group 68 weighs aprox 40/50 lbs.That's few ways.
Dave,I've seen Jason Billups(SOB 62 Ford) add,or remove a battery depending on a rounds time.He was usually right on on his dial.
The other thing you can do is bolt in a ballist box to the frame ala NHRA rules,and add or remove weight as needed.NHRA lists the acceptable mounts,and mounting bolt sizes.
If you want to try this I've seen wood,or cardboard shims placed under the floor mat to limit throttle travel,usually cardboard because it has some crush left.
Got an 8 gallon fuel cell and two batteries -- but that's not the best way to add/remove weight with precision.
I never liked to use fuel or batteries either, even though it does work for others. To me anything past the rearend or front wheels affects overall car balance, depending on front end lift or chassis rotation. Keeping the weights more centered doesn't upset handling as much.
Do you have an exposed crossmember behind the seat that will allow easy weight changes? Maybe some pictures of where you are thinking of mounting weight? Sounds like an good project.
I'd like to see photos of how you can legally mount barbell discs in the passenger compartment or in the trunk -- and/or a rack assembly for dumbells in the trunk. Most all of the NSS drivers were swapping in and out bolted in 25 pound plates for big weight changes and up to 100 pounds in loose bags of lead shot in a weight box for smaller weight changes -- but I didn't get a chance to see how they're doing the bolted in weight. One guy had a great system with a dumbell rack in the trunk made of welded up angle iron -- but I didn't get a long enough look at it. I'm hoping that racers who actually are able to quickly move in and out 25 -200 pounds will share how they're doing it.
Every single one of the guys winning NSS races is moving weight in and out of the car every round based on a computer weather station using a log of runs -- playing with as little as 10 pound changes. Two guys hit 00 with a three and another 00 with a 6 for qualifying. In the last year -- it has gotten that you can run a 11.00 with a 5 and lose a round because racers are going crazy with weather stations and bags of lead shot.
I know where to get the weather station -- I want to see the better ideas on mounting weight.
I have a set up of four 40 pound weights that I can bolt in on the left and right side of my trunk behind the wheels. With 160 pounds I was able to slow the car down about 2/10 (I went from 10.705 to 11.02). When the weather got worse I took out 80 pounds on the left side to hit my number, and then when the air got even worse (to 4500') I was able to hit my number by taking out the 80 pounds on the right. However, it takes two people (one under the car and one leaning over the truck) to bolt in these weights with 1/2" grade 8 bolts.
I want to take this to an even more scientific method with combination of barbell plates in and out quicker.
If you have a setup to move weight in and out of your car quickly and legally -- share what you're doing -- hopefully with some photos.
My experience has been using 5# lead doughnuts that usually have to meet minimum weight or simply to improve weight bias. Since you are using to keep more to a dial in, I can understand the need to quickly change out your weight. Since I have never had the opportunity to approach it this way, here is a thought. Depending on the diameter of the dumbell weights, have a plate cut to the largest diameter you would use and weld a piece of 1" x .156 wall DOM tubing in the center long enough to stack 4-25lb weights. Tap the other end 3/4"-16 for a 1" long grade 8 bolt.
Depending on 1,2,3 etc. weights you would need, make sleeves of various lengths that would take up the difference of thickness the dumbell would be. Assuming the inside of the dumbell hole is 1", you can easily stack weights, slide a sleeve of proper length over the tube to take up the difference and install the bolt to squeeze it together. As far as the plate, you could either bolt to the floor board with 4, 3/8 bolts or weld to an exposed part of the frame. By putting two of these on both side of the chassis, you could keep the weight balanced. Changing out quickly would simply be removing the bolt, or wingnut style bolt, remove the takeup sleeve and remove weight or add more by simply sliding on another dumbell. Put the sleeve (sleeves) back on the tubing and install the bolt. It would be more than secure, same material I use making 4 link bars. If you removed all the weights, and just the fixture was left, probably 5-6 lbs per fixture, depending on the actual material and size used. Obviously this is just a thought, but maybe it can give you an idea?
First, I do not like throttle stops since they don't work on an AFB. You can only open the primary side and vacuum in the intake can and will pull the secondary open. I found that out the hard way when I first started NSS racing. I could have the throttle only opening 1/2 way and still run fast. So I use weight and leave the engine alone. Some use timing but I feel that kills power and reaction time or going the other way screws you up.
Now for weight if you race like we do with the NMCA , you can see adjusted altitudes of 700 to 4500 feet. I can usually run 10.50 with about a 100#s in the car so I just adjust from there. If we are real fast I will put in the second battery. I usually have to run it. I have 5, 10 and 20 lb. weights from a weight machine. I bolt them to the rear crossmember with 2 -1/2" bolts.
Then I have more weight behind the seats with a 1/2" stud and use 10# barbell weight on these. Yes I will make 10# adjustments between rounds or maybe a 2 or 3 #s of gas. It's just a feeling or a good guess. But I have been in battles for 1# qualifier where I would run .002 over and some one else would also, but I have won a couple of those by being the first to do it. An example of good guessing was Mephis this past year. The weather was bad, wind blowing, and we had to run at like 9:30 am and not again until dark. Cindy and I just kept looking at everything and talking it over between our selves and made our best guess and ran like .021 over, said well that's not too bad, but it was good enough for #1.
Say I was to weld about 12" of a barbell (or similar size pipe) to a plate, and then mount that plate to the floor behind the passenger seat using (4) 1/2" grade 8 bolts -- could I legally use a collar to hold those weights onto that bar?
Class Racing -- Adding Weight 
Linear Mode
